Merida

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Good evening!

We made it to Merida and it is INCREDIBLE; rife with Roman ruins and alive with eclectic art and archaeology.

For 12€ you can get an open-ended ticket to see different sites around the city: the Theatre and Amphitheatre, the Roman Circus, Santa Eulalia’s cript, and the old Alcazaba, to name but a few. There are also many monuments and museums that are free. One day is NOT enough to see it all, but thankfully we can come back and use our ticket at any point, so we’re thinking of coming back in spring for a weekend, hopefully when the cherry blossom explodes into bloom in the surrounding country-side; a sight I’ve wanted to see since a student waxed-lyrical about its beauty a few years ago.

We parked Rita-the-van by the side of Merida U. D. Football stadium, and started our tour with the Amphitheatre. It is incredibly well preserved and they have reconstructed one side of the seating area, so you can get a better idea of what it must have looked like originally, although it is still missing the top rows of seats (where the bricks and stones had been dug up and used as a quarry). The centre of the Amphitheatre has a ditch that was once thought to have been filled with water, in order for the Romans to re-enact sea battles (although this was later disproved), and small rooms still exist at the various entrances into the ring, where animals and gladiators supposedly waited their turn. There is a really good display of some of the different types of gladiators, and an explanation of their costumes, fighting techniques and opponents.

Right next to the Amphitheatre is the Theatre which is breathtaking, fully reconstructed, and since the 1930s (I think?), has been reclaimed as a theatre space again, where every summer they hold the Merida Festival de Teatro Clasico.

After satisfying our thirst for roman ruins, we picnicked next to the Roman bridge that arcs over the river Guadiana. 

Finally we visited the old Alcazaba, a perfect place, we decided, to hide out if attacked by zombies, and also home to an amazing aljibe, an underground pool that filtered water from the river through a series of rocks, for the residence of the Alcazaba.

We finished the day off in a teeny tiny village called Mirandilla, where we found THE ONLY bar with wifi. It was also full of men -ONLY men- and we came to the conclusion that I was literally the only girl in the entire pueblo. The men in the bar were all watching the Olympics (women fighting women... had to be!) and the barman (possibly to stop a riot), guided us to the 'salon' part of the bar... a large enclosed space far away from everyone else hahaha!

Have you ever been to Merida? What did you think of it?

N Xxx

Zafra

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Hola from Zafra!

Well, we drove back into Seville on Monday night in high spirits, and made a short rest-stop at Casa De Us, to pick up forgotten essentials, have a cold shower and a siesta before setting off again, this time north along the ‘Ruta de la Plata’ (Silver route) towards Zafra. We’re trying to travel as much at night as possible, as Rita, stately and elegant as she is, is somewhat antiquated, and doesn’t have any form of air conditioning... an essential attribute for 40˚ day-time driving.

We drove for about 120 km until we came to a lake, half way up the map to Zafra, on the edge of a village called Calera de Leon. We parked in a dusty field, set up camp, and were rewarded for our efforts the following morning when we woke up and saw this:

The only souls in site were a couple of guys that had pulled up in a Land Rover to go fishing, a herd of ginger cows, and their friendly aged herdsman, who greeted the two tousled sleepy forms that stumbled out of the van with a cheery ‘Buenas dias!’.

We seriously need to learn to pack up camp more quickly in the mornings, as by the time we made it to Zafra, the sun was already high in the sky and we were very quickly sizzled to a crisp, as we explored the city’s compact walled-in centre.

Whitewashed houses, and columned squares, after Sevilla, Zafra was a little disappointing. Picturesque in its own right, and with narrow winding streets, it unfortunately lacks something. Perhaps it is the commercial street that runs through the centre of it, chock-a-block with the typical high street shops found in any town.

It was also unfortunately tinted somewhat by the disastrous attempted siesta, where M, Güini and I were literally boiled in the tin can that is Rita.

On a positive note, the solomillo iberico we tried in the bar ‘Comeero’ behind the bull ring, was absolutely mouth watering, and there was a very interesting plaque in one of the squares that talked about a tour of the local vineyards... enough to tempt me back for another (cooler) visit in the future, methinks!

N Xxx

Santa Rita

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Greetings from Santa Rita, the smallest village in the entire WORLD! (maybe)

M and I left Seville at about 5am, after the first adventure of Rita's battery dying, and us being stranded approximately... well... 2 minutes from our front door. Insurance companies DO occasionally come in useful however, and one visit from a knight in shining armour and a portable battery later, and we were on our way.

We drove until we hit Ayamonte, the last town in Spain before Portugal, where we parked the van rather cheekily in the car park of a 5 star hotel, and grabbed a 3 hour nap.

The next morning we skipped over the boarder, and drove in silent joy over the whole freedom of the thing. We saw a sign to Santa Rita, and figured it would be rude to just drive past, so we stopped.

Santa Rita is lovely, even if it is about the size of a postage stamp, and the best thing about it is what lies behind it. Keep driving but a few metres, and you find a lovely pine forest nature reserve, complete with deer literally skipping about under your nose, and a breathtaking view of the beaches and sea below.

 We spend that night on one of those beaches, Manta Rota, a long, overcrowded stretch of golden sand, but conveniently public-toilet'ed and with dark shaded areas for couples to park up, demolish a bottle of wine and play drunken dominoes late into the night.

A truly wonderful start to our trip!

N Xxx

Summer Hols!

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Tonight M and I are going to start our first real adventure in Rita the Van. We're going to drive over to the south coast of Portugal and visit a couple of places we already know, and then (probably) go back over to Spain and follow 'El Camino de la Plata', up the south west edge of Spain, stopping and visiting whatever takes our fancy, until we get to Galicia, which is by all accounts lush, green and beautiful.

We're trying to keep this trip as open and loose as possible, so we'll keep you posted, and let you know how it goes!

N Xxx

Beginnings and Endings

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A daffodil blooms in the patio as the jasmine I plucked on the way home from work one night finally fades and wilts (but remarkably still smells really good!)

N Xxx

Found Photos

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Good afternoon!

SO today's postcards aren't my photos, but rather photos I found in the local flea market.

I bought them with a handful more that I found in a basket hidden among old antiques and bits of scrap metal. There were some repeats, so I think the photographer, whoever he/she was, had a dark room, and these were the practice prints knocked off as they tried to get the contrast right etc.

The first one could easily have been taken here in Spain and she looks like she's probably Rumana. The photo is laden with complex emotions and social questions, that are all too real here in Spain. But I really like it because here, in this still snap-shot of Rumano life, we're on her territory as guests, not the other way round.

The second photo is quite different and looks like a Japanese model having make-up put on. This one I think I'm going to frame and put in the bathroom by my make-up as inspiration! I love the way she's looking up and the make-up artist and not at the camera, and the contrast of the dark background against the pale colour of her skin.

Has anyone else ever bought old photos from markets? What do you do with them?

N Xxx

Setas

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Hello

The mushrooms in Sevilla have grown!

The architectural project has taken over 5 years to get to this point, the same amount of time that I've spent living in Sevilla :) 

The project has had to find it's way around various problems, from finding roman ruins on the site, to protests about the old market being closed down, to safety fears, etc etc. All in all I think they've done an amazing job at accommodating most issues. The Roman ruins were left where they were found, and can now be viewed inside the mushrooms. The market has also been relocated under the mushrooms, and I'm hoping to visit it tomorrow for some fruit n veg shopping (camera in tow... obviously!)

It's quite a shock to see this massive organic structure curve its way around the old plaza, still surrounded by the older, more classically beautiful buildings, but although in many ways I'm a purist when it comes to architecture, this surreal building/sculpture is lovely to walk around, and I have to admit that from hating the idea, I've done a full 360* turn, and now LOVE IT!

Have a good day

Nxxx

Cupcake Sunday

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Guess how I spent Sunday afternoon? :)

N xxx

Ingredients

• 1 3/4 cup cake flour

• 1 cup sugar

• 1/2 teaspoons salt

• 2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

• 2 large eggs, separated and whites beaten until stiff

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1/2 cup orange juice

• 1 stick of butter, softened

Orange Cupcake Recipe Directions

Combine butter, sugar, egg yolks, and vanilla in a mixing bowl. Cream these ingredients together thoroughly.

Mix flour, salt, and baking powder together in a separate mixing bowl. Add dry ingredients to creamed ingredients 1/3 at a time alternating with adding portions of the orange juice to the creamed mixture.

Fold in beaten egg whites. Spoon batter into cupcake liners until 1/2 full.

Bake in a 350 degree preheated oven for 15 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.

Cool cupcakes completely before frosting with orange icing.

(found at www.cupcakerecipes.com)

Markets and Mojitos

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Ooooooh today's been a good day!

First off we went to the market and seeped up the sights and smells...

...THEN we went to the bakery, and bought a freshly baked chapata, 2 soft rolls for tomorrow's breaky :)

After that we went to the Alameda and listened to a band, drank some beers and snacked on the olives we'd bought earlier, saw some friends and then headed home where we prepared lunch: mixed-grain rice with baked fish and a salad.... yum! (Güini came out to see what was going on and beg a lettuce leaf)

And finally, tonight I tried my hand at my FIRST EVER MOJITO! And let me tell you (she says as she slurps with one hand and types with the other)... it's as good as it looks! hehe!

Later alagator!

N xxx

Crochet Queen

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Afternoon!

Well now, WHAT a busy couple of weeks I've had! I haven't picked up my camera for a very long time, and I've been missing it, but what with work, various projects, and the disappointingly wet weather we've had lately, there just hasn't been the opportunity to get photo-creative :(

So instead I've been throwing myself into other things, like learning to crochet! Oh yes, Crochet Queen I am, despite being called 'granny' by M whenever I whip the hook out, I've now crocheted 2 scarves and a bunch of little hearts and flowers. I love it! I'm thinking blankets, scarves and brooches and all made from locally sourced wool of course... I'm keeping this as eco-friendly as poss, and I want to put something back into the Andalusian economy... god knows it needs it...

How is March treating you?

N xxx

Retro Tea

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Morning!

It's a beautiful day today, warm and sunny and decidedly spring-like. It certainly gave me the edge to get out of bed early and head out to the local Thursday flea market, where I found this amazing retro coffee set for a mere 15 euros! Perfect condition except for a slight chip on the sugar bowl's lid, but I think I can fix that. Then had breaky in a cool little bar that makes their own bagals (sesame seed for me, with philadelphia and smoked salmon, a squeeze of lemon and some freshly ground pepper... yum!).

On the way back home through the market I found the perfect round wooden retro tray for the teaset. Score!

When I got home I realised I'd bought a set that matches the retro tiles in the kitchen perfectly :) Mwahahaha I am SO 1970s!

Hope you're having a fab day, 

N xxx

A Rural Birthday

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Morning!

So I'm finally FREE! Well, free of exams and reports anyway and now... oh joy of joys... a 4 day holiday! I think I'm speaking for all the teachers at our school when I say WE NEED IT! The exam period is all-consuming, and by the end of it all we're a wreck!

That said the whole thing was nicely broken up by the weekend we had in Vejer, and then last weekend we celebrated a friend's 40th Birthday by spending a weekend in a country house. Cold but beautiful, it was a wonderful weekend and fun was had by all :)

N xxx